Skin prep for makeup artists OILY SKIN
I share my tips so you can feel more confident in skin prep for oily skin. Oily skin can be a challenging skin type to work with on set due to the amount of sebum on the skin that continually replenishes. Getting back to basics is key as knowledge is power. I talk about particular products that I have used and worked well in my experience, bear in mind that there are many more options to play with. Practice makes perfect in terms of what you use and what works but if you know what to look out for it will certainly help.
How to identify an oily skin type:
Skin will have sebum everywhere on it, not just the t zone.
Eyelids will have oil on them.
Pores are visibly enlarged, especially on the nose, chin and forehead.
Blackheads are visible on the nose.
Makeup simply slides off when the skin isn't suitably prepped.
It can have areas of dryness due to dehydration and a variety of other things.
Your goal is to help control the oil before applying any makeup
Cleanse the skin, remove all existing oil on the skin and eyelids with a micellar with a cotton pad. Bioderma Sébium H2O Purifying Micellar Cleansing Water
Spray hydration into to the skin, its light and simply wakes the skin up. I love the MAC fix + spray, it contains glycerin which is a humectant and in simple terms traps moisture and draws it deeper into the skin.
BHA toner will help to gently exfoliate the skin, calm skin and help to remove excess sebum. A good ingredient to look out for is salicylic acid and can reduce sebum secretion. Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant a light toner that will make the skin look brighter and quick to use.
A light hyaluronic serum is enough to hydrate but not overwhelm the skin, promotes a proper moisture balance in the skin and prevents the over-production of oil. One that never lets me down is the Hada Labo super hyaluronic acid, it's not too tacky or thick.
Moisturiser- less is more! Avoid rich creams at all costs. Use something designed for an oily skin type and is lightweight. You may find that the skin is hydrated enough with the serum and can skip any moisturiser. The skin should look plump and not 'wet'. La Roche-Posay Effaclar MAT+ Moisturiser Oily Skin a light formula that contains micro powder to help absorb excess oil another one I use is the Murad Oil and Pore Control Mattifier which feels a litter heavier to the touch.
Primers can sometimes simply disagree with the skin especially with a slip as this and cause more issues, so I tend to skip this.
Use something to prime the eyes, MAC 24 hour eye base is fantastic. This is a clear formula with plenty of tack that helps control the oil on the eyes. This has so much grip it would be worth dusting a light powder on top to help blend shadows.
A hero for a minimal look and great for all skin tones as it is clear is the MAC Matte Creme and it almost behaves like powder as it reduces the appearance of shine on the skin.
Dust a fine layer of setting powder before applying any base makeup. MAC Blot powder is the best for oil control.
Touch up
Blot skin with blotting papers, a clean brush, puff or sponge before you top up powder on set as you may not need more powder. The powder will build up, look cakey and potentially oxidise ( change and go a few shades darker) as you layer. I still have a supply of the discontinued MAC blot papers, which I haven’t had to replace yet.
If you don’t want to use a powder a good alternative is the Rae Morris Invisible Mattifier, this is a silicone-based formula that mattes the skin and gives it a smooth finish. This is best used on its own and not with a powder.
Those are my top tips for you! Let me know if you have any other great additions in the comments below.
Love
Lisa x